Cambodia

I first saw the film "Apocalypse Now" when I was around fifteen years old. Based on Joseph Conrad's 1899 Novel "Heart of Darkness", it tells the story of Captain Willard as he travels up the fictional Nung River from Southern Vietnam into Cambodia to find and terminate (with extreme prejudice) Colonel Kurtz. I have now seen the film at least twenty times and on every viewing I find something new that captures my attention. The river, the jungle, the patrol boat, the danger... It drew me in completely and I felt immersed in the film. I wanted to know what these places were like, how they had changed since the war and how they had stayed the same. So, in April 2023, with Kim Wilde playing in my ears, I decided to fly to Cambodia.

Angkor Wat

Well, if only it was that easy. First, I had to stop over in Bangkok for a ten hour, overnight, layover. So that wasn't ideal, but, cheap flights eh? Eventually, after a long and mostly sleepless night it was time to board for the first stop of the trip - Siem Reap.

I'm never confident on these things

The first thing I can tell you about Siem Reap in April is that it's hot. Really hot. Luckily passport control at Siem Reap's airport is really well organized so before long I had managed to get a SIM card and was in a taxi on my way to the Mad Monkey Hostel. A quick aside here - if you ever travel to Siem Reap or most tourist destinations in Asia, try to stay at a Mad Monkey Hostel if you can. Really great facilities, fun activities and they organize all the touristy trips you may want to do.

The first afternoon at the hostel was quite literally spent drinking several beers. This is an extremely cheap activity in Cambodia as, since they still make use of the US Dollar, alcohol and food are not going to put a big dent in your wallet.

The next day it was time for the Angkor Wat trip. This has been a dream destination of mine for years but the 3:30AM wake up with a massive hungover meant the day did not begin well. The reason for the early wake up is to ensure the tour group arrives at the temple just on time to see the sun pop out from behind it. It truly is one of the most memorable moments of my life.

This is what you can expect on most days at Angkor Wat but don't be put off - go!

Angkor Wat is massive by the way. It comprises over a thousand temples on about four hundred acres of land. This means it is the largest religious structure on Earth. Most people who visit here get a weekly pass and either get driven around by a guide in a car or tuk-tuk or hire a bicycle to ride around (elite fitness levels required). After some more exploring, including a visit to Ta Prohm, a temple made famous by the Tomb Raider film, and a healthy meal of beef lak lok, it was time to head home.

After one more day in Siem Reap spent exploring the city and one more night at the famous Pub Street, it was time to head to Phnom Penh, the capital.

The next morning, at 8AM, I was on a bus headed for the capital. This was a really cheap option (only $12) and a different way to see some of the country. One awesome thing about this bus trip is it goes right past the Tonlé Sap lake, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia.

Upon arrival in Phnom Penh I was ushered away to the Airbnb by a driver that had been sent to collect me. On reflection I wish I had stayed at a hostel or backpackers here as well but the view from the high floor and infinity pool was totally worth it.

Phnom Penh is a phenomenal city. The traffic is crazy. The nightlife is flourishing. The people are so incredibly friendly it makes you forget France exists. Some highlights of my time here were the visit to Central Market which is just astonishing. Corridor after corridor of anything you want. The food is incredible, the people are happy to help... It just works.

Central Market

Phnom Penh Night Market

A trip to Cambodia would not be complete without a Mekong River cruise and so I did exactly this. For around $30 I was picked up from the hotel and dropped off at the promenade on to a cruise that offered unlimited drinks and fresh fruit platters. Dream come true.

The Phnom Penh promenade

The view from the Mekong

Don't think that was my first beer

On a more sombre note, the next day I paid a visit to one of Cambodia's many killing fields when I went to Choeung Ek in Dangkao. This is the site of a mass grave, discovered once the Khmer Rouge had fallen. I won't go into much more detail here but being at one of the sites of one of the worst genocides in history broke me and I spent the rest of the day reflecting deeply on what it means to be human. On the same day I also visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum which left me in tears and I didn't sleep well that night.

Tuol Sleng

Choeung Ek Genocidal Center

I loved Cambodia. It wowed me and broke me down at the same time. Did I get the Captain Willard experience? No. But I didn't need to. I got what I wanted in so many ways. This is a country that came out of one of the worst events in human history on the right side. I have never before or since traveled to a place where the locals are so happy and excited to see tourists. I did not feel unwelcome for even one second during this trip. If you're thinking about visiting Cambodia, do it. Go and see all the tourist spots but also stop at the places that remind you how we got here, it will make you really think about the world we live in.